First off – sorry I haven’t been writing much. A difficult combination of working too much and not sleeping enough (thank you bad neighbours!)
There’s so much hapening in the world of fashion right now. It’s exilherating! The New York, Paris, London, Milan shows gave us much to think about. Check out style.com for pictures. There was no clear trend present on the runways. A bit of a mish mash jumble of visions for the future. Does this reflect what is happening on the business side of fashion? Me thinks so.
On the left we have enviromentally conscious independent designers who rely heavily on their respective small “scenes” and friends to support their high price tags and visions of utopia. Don’t get me wrong – I totally support small local designers, after all I’m one myself. It just seems to me that the independent designers that get press from local weeklies like the Hour and Voir are always the same ones. Youknow the ones with friends who work at the paper. We all know it’s true, why not admit it and let the cat out of the bag. Mmmm… Doesn’t that feel good? Now we have room to let the new kids in. And, as much as I like t support the enviromentally conscious fashion that is gaining ground, I can’t afford it. Too rich for my blood. I’ll have to let someone else pave the way.
In the middle we have long time medium sized companies that are struggling to stay afloat. I was talking to a prduct developemnet manager from Puma the other day who was complaining that because of other vertically integrated companies, they were having trouble competing in the current market. Not only are their costs higher but it takes longer to get their product to market. Usually by the time the product hits the stores, the vertically integrated stores have scooped them and taken the shine off the, now not so, new product.
We also have the large multi national companies like H & M that are killing off everyone else. The other day I saw an ad in Voir for H & M that showed a shirt for about $22.00 Who can compete with that? It costs me $22 just to get the shirt made locally! Then I have to sell it (double the price for wholesale then double for the retail price and you’ll see my delimna). Not only that but stores like Gap, H & M and Old Navy bring in big names that eclipse the smaller, up and coming names.
If price weren’t an issue enough, what about these large companies knocking off other designs. Ralph Lauren built his empire on this strategy and you can be other it’s common practice in the industry. Every company I worked for did. It’s not a secret in the business. So if you’re a small designer and one of these guys buys a shirt, or something, from you, they can knock off and have it in their store (across the world!) in a matter of weeks: thereby making you look like you’re doing knock offs. Plus everyone is getting in on being “green” so you can’t used that as a way to differentiate your product anymore. Remember: he who has the most exposure wins.
The small and medium businesses are scrambling to stay alive and set themselves apart from the big box stores. But as you can see this is becoming increasingly difficult. The current fashion shown for Fall 2008 are definately reflecting this confusion and attempt to differentiate. On the plus side, this may help to cultivate “look” loyalty and individualism. Very anti big box, indeed!
So, please, if you can, shop local and independent. Stores like Le Marche Montreal on Ave des Pins est have been hard hit with the ongoing construction on blvd St. Laurent. Currently the road in front of their store is ripped up and, almost, inaccessible. But they’re open and they support local designers and you should support them.
Also try supporting Melanie at le Pop Shoppe (3656 Boulevard St-Laurent). Not only does she sell great vinyl, she also sells some designs from local creatives as well as some of her own amazing clothing designs.
These aren’t the usual names that you read about in the newspaper but they’re equally deserving of our attention! Local media needs to support more people outside of their circle of friends!!
